New York, which was still very hot in the first few days of September, suddenly changed the day on the first day of the New York Fashion Week. The sun that lasted for more than a week turned into a drizzle and a gust of wind. The minimum temperature on September 9 is only 13 degrees.
This kind of weather really makes the fashion of the love dress a headache. But what makes many people want to frown is still the increasingly bleak fashion week schedule. Last year, brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and DKNY announced their withdrawal from New York Fashion Week. At the beginning of this year, brands such as Alexander Wang and Vera Wang also left.
However, if you really go to New York, you will find that under the surface of Xiaosuo, a lot of power is just around the corner.
Just like Ralph Lauren, who is still holding a scene for New York Fashion Week, commemorating the bottom of the 50-year-old show, and Marc Jacobs, who continues to create the topic, relies on delaying the show for an hour and a half. The screen of the social network.
The 2nd Tmall China Day was also held in New York Fashion Week as scheduled, bringing together Chinese brands such as Particle Fever, JNBY and Angel Chen. By the way, the number of Chinese brands unveiled at New York Fashion Week has reached 33.
In addition to this, there are a series of activities outside the show. Just as New York feels open and inclusive, New York Fashion Week also gives people the feeling of being able to accommodate everything. As the most unfamiliar of the four major fashion weeks, New York Fashion Week is constantly discovering new ways and possibilities.
Play a "win-win cooperation"
The launch of New York Fashion Week Tmall China Day was held on September 9th at the sixth floor of Spring Studios, the main venue of Fashion Week. The room where the conference is held is called "Red Room", and the dark red carpet makes it look like a Chinese fan.
On the background screen of the conference, there is a small fan with the words "Four Seas". This is the theme of this Tmall China Day.
At the press conference, Steven Kolb, chairman of the American Fashion Designers Association (CFDA), one of the organizers of New York Fashion Week, was brief. He said to the designers of the three brands of China Day: "I hope that you will receive a lot of orders."
This does not make people think of Li Ning, the participating brand of the previous "China Day". The appearance of this veteran sports brand in New York Fashion Week caused 20 million microblog discussions, and even more directly detonated sales - according to Tmall's data, China's Japanese show field shoes sold 1000 pairs in one minute. Li Ning, who tasted the sweetness, went to Paris in June 2018 to do a show.
Orders, or business, are the point of contact between the International Fashion Week and Chinese brands. The manifestation of this in New York, where the commercial atmosphere is strong, is more obvious. Kolb's speech is an example. His performance on the show is also that Kolb can be seen in the front row of most Chinese brand launch shows. He usually sits with the owner or designer of the brand to appreciate the appearance of newcomers in New York.
“Chinese brands certainly have a more suitable audience in China, but if they want to be truly successful, they still have to go international. New York Fashion Week is a good opportunity. Of course, designers understand this, so they all came to New York. Steven Kolb told the interface reporter.
Bof founder Imran Amed told the interface reporter at the BOF 500 dinner held during the Fashion Week: "This kind of cooperation, we call it a win-win situation.
The organizer of “China Day†is Centrino Fashion, a brand management company in China's fashion, lifestyle and entertainment industry, and Tmall, an e-commerce platform. Centrino Fashion entered into a strategic partnership with CFDA in January 2017, and in September 2017, Tmall organized the “China Day†during the first New York Fashion Week. For participating brands in New York Fashion Week, Centrino and Tmall will also give them the opportunity to go international.
"In addition to China Day, Tmall will also help CFDA's designer brands enter the Chinese market." Liu Xiuyun, general manager of Tmall's apparel business unit said.
Chinese legion gameplay
At 9 o'clock on September 9th, local time, Wang Ju, who became popular in the show "Creation 101" and became popular with the "contrast aesthetic", is eating Chinese food on the 8th floor of Metro Daylight Studio in Midtown Manhattan, New York. At the same table as her is the staff of the brand Particle Fever. After more than ten hours, Wang Ju will contribute to her first fashion week show, for Particle Fever, at New York Fashion Week.
"I don't have much interest in watching the show itself. I feel similar when I look at the pictures on the show floor and on the mobile phone." Wang Ju is still self-consistent in answering the questions of the interface reporter, full of the "new age women". Energy, "I feel that I can feel it in the background, I can feel it, I can feel it when I wear it. I feel that it really makes sense to really participate in Fashion Week."
On September 10th, at the opening show of Tmall China Day, Wang Ju and UFC boxer Li Jingliang and others boarded the runway. You may have already made their photos on Weibo. After all, because of the unloading of the iconic European-American eye makeup, Wang Ju also instantaneously screened Weibo.
This is a great thing for the brand.
“I hope the brand has a good time at New York Fashion Week, and if there is an increase in sales and an increase in influence, it is certainly a better thing.†Paticle Fever co-founder Ji Jin said. She had previously studied at Harvard Law School in the United States and worked briefly in New York. She is no stranger to the United States and New York: "We are not only looking forward to the US market, but also expecting the global market."
According to her, the brand is now busy looking for suitable stores in overseas markets. Of course, the most urgent thing at the moment is this show.
"I feel that people are floating now." People said. At this moment, the team at Particle Fever is still trying to dress up the model. Wang Ju will join the meal after dinner.
In the same studio, Li Lin, the founder of JNBY, another brand participating in Tmall China Day, appears to be more calm.
"I have been in this studio for the past few days in New York. It feels like it is no different from us in Hangzhou." Li Lin told the interface reporter. In comparison, JNBY, which has been established for many years, has a lot of experience in Fashion Week. Although it is the first time to come to New York Fashion Week, it does not have much pressure. "I just want to look at the clothes."
That being said, JNBY still took the treasure in this show. From the new design released by the show, JNBY maintains its natural, intellectual and artistic design style. But in addition, the last model of the old model on the show was to contribute a higher degree of topic to the brand.
The old model is Maya Musk, the mother of Tesla founder Elon Musk. She has a silver-white bob head, wearing a black oversize suit and high-heeled sandals, quietly echoing JNBY's latest series name "Unlimited unilimited".
In comparison, the most "low-key" in China's day trip is probably the most eloquent Angel Chen. This is related to the brand's own plan. Before being invited to participate in “Tmall China Dayâ€, the brand is ready to launch a new series in Milan Fashion Week as usual. But the brand is at the wholesale and retail point of the retail, and has just been on the Tmall online store, so Angel Chen's team decided to promise the invitation of the current retail channel Tmall.
“I think it’s time to move forward,†said Chen Chen, founder of Angel Chen. “And New York is a newer energy than other fashion weeks. I hope that I will be able to walk in New York in the future because of the DNA of our entire brand. New York is a special fit."
It is worth mentioning that in addition to participating in the Tmall China Day brand, many Chinese brands also released their new series during the New York Fashion Week, including the self-help down brand Bosideng and sports. Brand Senma. These two brands have invited celebrities to come to see the show. Bosideng invited the Hollywood actress Anne Hathaway, Jeremy Renner and Deng Wendi, the "Eagle Eye" actors in the "Revenge Alliance" series. Senma invited Ouyang Nini and a group of nets to come to watch the show.
Inside and outside the show, who else is playing in fashion week?
After the fashion show, Chen Anqi sent a circle of friends, "Thank you for the support from vivo and Liu Wen."
Vivo is the partner of Tmall China Day, specializing in supporting the brand Angel Chen. Not only is there a big poster of vivo outside the show, Angel Chen's fashion show, vivo's new mobile phone has become an accessory on the model. Some of the models carry their phones on their backs, and some tie their phones to their arms or thighs. The phone has become a part of the show.
Liu Wen is the spokesperson for this phone. On the Angel Chen show, the product designer of vivo and Liu Wen watched the show together, and did not forget to raise the mobile phone when they took photos.
In addition to mobile phone brands, there are other unexpected joint collaborations at New York Fashion Week, such as Shenzhen Vientiane and the US functional materials company 3M on the Particle Fever show.
UFC champion boxer Li Jingliang swings his fists around for the Profile Fever show. He wears accessories from Particle Fever and Shenzhen Vientiane World. This is a boxing champion gold belt with two Chinese elephants in Vientiane. This joint belt will also be sold in pop-ups along with the cross-border lists of the other four Vientiane Worlds during the first anniversary of the Vientiane World in Shenzhen.
3M Company and the Particle Fever jointly released a multi-deformation wing-mounted cotton suit, inspired by the extreme sports wing flight, filled with 3M's latest thermal insulation material.
During the New York Fashion Week, such cross-border cooperation did not only occur in the show.
Beyond the show, Tmall selected six brands with Chinese characteristics including Laoganma, Shuangmei and Yunnan Baiyao. During the Tmall China Day, they cooperated with the famous American shopkeeper Opening Ceremony on September 9th. On September 11th, the national pop-up flash shop (pop-up) was launched.
The cross-border collaborations of Laoganma Sweater and Shuangmei Sweater are designed by Opening Ceremony. Opening Ceremony (hereinafter referred to as OC) made its debut in China last year through the Tmall Trends platform. This year's New York Fashion Week's national flash flash is a further step in the cooperation between Tmall and OC.
After the OC design, the old godmother turned into a tide brand, an old dry mother sweater price of 120 dollars, a "Sauces Queen" apron will sell for 40 dollars.
Although the OC staff told the interface reporter that the sales of this series of goods is not very popular, there are still many Chinese guests at the flash shop to stop and take pictures. After the old godmother landed in New York for 3 days, the old dry mother sweater was just put on the Tmall on the evening of the 13th, and was quickly robbed.
During this New York Fashion Week, the Flash Store should be the favorite event of each brand.
Beauty brand YSL Beauty opened a beauty flash hotel from September 8th to September 9th in the SOHO area not far from the main venue of New York Fashion Week.
YSL Beauty's last flash hotel opened in Hong Kong. The content of this New York flash event is similar to that of the last time in Hong Kong. Guests who make an appointment can try YSL Beauty's latest cosmetics and buy custom-made products at the beauty hotel. Lipstick, playing games, and of course the most important: taking a photo.
American fashion brand Urban Outfitters also opened a cosmetics flash shop for the newly launched independent makeup brand Ohii, also from September 8th to September 9th, the flash shop is not far from YSL Beauty Hotel, two stores The walking time is only 3 minutes.
At Ohii's flash shop, customers can get a free sample of cosmetics, try out the full range of new products coming soon, and taste the coffee that the store offers in partnership with New York's famous coffee shop Bluestone Lane.
In the past years, new series were released in New York Fashion Week, and the absent brand Rebecca Minkoff also appeared in the form of a flash shop.
At Spring Studio, the main venue for New York Fashion Week, every spectator after the show leaves the first floor lobby to leave. There are several brands of flash shops in this small space, including the Girl Power theme flash vending machine jointly launched by Visa and New York Fashion Week.
The flash vending machine sells "one for you, one for me" products specially designed by Rebecca Minkoff, Venessa Arizaga and Neely & Chole for the flash event. You can buy it directly on the vending machine with a Visa credit card.
Less than three days after New York Fashion Week began, Venessa Arizaga's bracelet and Neely&Chole handbags were sold out.
The flash shop in the Spring Studio lobby is not only a fashion brand, but also a local New York coffee shop and hair salon.
The Café by PAPYRUS business has been very good during the fashion week, especially on a rainy morning, where customers in front of the flash coffee shop are always long queues. In addition to buying coffee, The Café by PAPYRUS also sends free greeting cards to the fashion week's audience and provides a shipping service. Many people fill out the greeting card and stuff it into the small mailbox of the flash shop.
TRESemmé hair salon flash shop business looks ordinary, but there are also a lot of passing audience to stop here, by the way to make a shape, after the convenience of playing cards in the show.
Even Evian Mineral Water also has a dedicated freezer in the main show lobby, where mineral water and sparkling water are available for visitors to the New York Fashion Week show. In addition, Evian has set up a special rest corner in the corner of the lobby. People who come to see the show can take a short break and recharge their mobile phones.
These 8-day-old flash shops all showed their faces on the social media in the world by watching the punching photos of the audiences from New York Fashion Week.
Fashion people gather together to play
On the evening of September 9, the fashion media Business of Fashion (hereinafter referred to as BoF) hosted the 2018 BoF 500 dinner at 1 Hotel next to the Brooklyn Bridge in New York.
Despite the light rain that night, the wind on the Hudson River kept blowing. At the dinner party, the fashion industry squadrons began to walk the red carpet at 8 o'clock on time and put a professional posture on the camera.
This is the sixth year of BoF's selection of the BoF 500 list to select the 500 most influential people in the global fashion industry. At the BoF 500 dinner this year, there are supermodels such as Gigi and Bella Hadid, as well as famous designers such as Tory Burch and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as senior fashion media people such as Carine Roitfeld, the French editor of Vogue, and Imran Amed, the founder of BoF.
The fashion-conscious people in the fashion world are chatting around a dozen high-end round tables in the 1 Hotel. In the dimly lit cocktail area, the outdoor New York City is now 15 degrees cold.
Of course, in addition to socializing, the BoF 500 dinner is also a place for fashion people to discuss the current status of the fashion circle.
“This year, we are very concerned about people who can really solve the problems in the fashion industry, because the past year is very difficult for the fashion industry, such as the metoo movement, such as the environmental pollution problem of the fashion industry.†BoF founder Imran Amed told the interface reporter.
Because of this, Imran Amed told reporters that this year's BoF 500 focuses on people who can solve fashion problems, such as reporters who report on these issues, such as scientists who develop new technologies to mitigate environmental pollution, such as design changes. division.
“Everyone in the fashion circle is discussing sustainability, but no one really does something useful,†Amed told the interface reporter. “One of my favorite stories in this issue of BoF is about three young people experimenting. The production of imitation leather and silk in the room, this technology can really solve the problem."
The BoF 500 dinner was only coming to an end at 12 o'clock in the middle of the night. Imran Amed interrupted the fashion industry people who were still chatting, thanking the people on the field and calling on everyone who can solve the problem in the fashion circle. The speech soon ended, the band began to play, people began to climb the top of the Club, and began dancing parties next to the Manhattan skyline.
In addition to the well-known media such as BoF, there are also many “folk powers†​​in New York Fashion Week playing their own tricks.
DapperQ is a fashion website that advocates empowering queers, speaking to minority groups that are ignored by mainstream media and designers. This year DapperQ and the Brooklyn Museum hosted the fifth fashion week belonging to the LGBTQ group with the theme "Dress Code".
This year's LGBTQ New York Fashion has 9 designers and more than 70 models participating on Monday. The show has more than 2,000 viewers, the largest number in the history of LGBTQ New York Fashion Week.
“The mainstream fashion industry always takes the minority from the minority and excludes the minority. When the queer group does not have its own discourse system, our stories are often misinterpreted or blindly obsessed.†DapperQ founder Anita Dolce Vita said at LGBTQ New York Fashion Week.
Dolce Vita said that LGBTQ New York Fashion Week is a platform for the outside world to see the realities of the queer group.
Is a carnival belonging to a group of people
However, although the recently concluded New York Fashion Week has occupied the headlines of fashion media for half a month, New York Fashion Week is only a small part of the city of New York.
Angelika, who has been watching fashion shows at New York Fashion Week for several years, is a fashion journalist for Essential Homme magazine. For her, this year's New York Fashion Week is no different from previous years. Although she is lining up to watch JNBY's show, she doesn't know about this Chinese brand. She doesn't know that 33 Chinese brands will debut in New York Fashion Week this year.
"God, I really don't know so much." Angelika said.
In addition, most of the Uber drivers who pick up and drop off passengers around the New York Fashion Week venue only know that New York Fashion Week is going on when they see the signs at New York Fashion Week outside the venue. Some Uber drivers don't know at all how New York Fashion Week is going to happen.
"For those who don't pay attention to fashion, Fashion Week is very boring, and the fashion industry is not very big for the US economy." Lin Jian, founder of Shitang Showroom, told the interface reporter.
Outside the main venue of New York Fashion Week, the security guards who kept order stopped the passers-by who had no show tickets and said to the next partner: "I almost collapsed last night."
Liu Xiuyun worked in the publishing house more than ten years ago as the general manager of the Tmall Apparel Business Unit. At that time, she came to New York to participate in the book fair. She told the interface reporter that she once saw the culture side of New York, and these two came to New York Fashion Week to see the fashion side of New York.
Inclusive and diverse New York has not changed in the eyes of Liu Xiuyun for more than a decade. She saw the culture and fashion side of New York, and different people might see the financial or other face of New York.
"After all, what kind of background are you, what kind of place you see in New York." Liu Xiuyun said.