Ben Wang, February 24 hearing, leather footwear production standards and process parameters, personally feel very important.
1: Toe cap toe: width 8mm, thickness 0.8mm
Note: If the toe cap is too thick, it will cause easy to germinate before the operation. If it is too thin, it will cause no tension and it will break easily.
2: cut the waist to help: width 5mm, thickness 0.6mm
Note: If the waist is cut too thick, it will cause knocking or traces of the waist, and vice versa will cause the waist to break.
3: After cutting back: width 4mm, thickness 0.8mm
Note: If the back side is too thick, it will make the back side difficult to knock off, and there will be traces. Too thin will cause a break in the back
4: Shoe hole: width 8mm, thickness oblique to 0.45mm
Note: Excessive thickness of the shoe's mouth will make the shoe's mouth thicker and traced.
5: cut non-woven fabric, rear cover: width 7mm, thickness oblique in the end
Note: If you cut too wide, it will not cover the peeling position and it will break easily. If it's too narrow and too thick, it will make traces inside (Terry can't cut it inside and out)
6: Cut the inner frontal foot, the width is 3mm, the width of the toe is 4mm, the thickness is slanted in the end
Note: If the inner leg is too wide, the shoes will be peeled after the shoe has been formed. If it is over-cut, it will not enhance the adhesion between the inner and midsole.
7: Ingredients: According to the customer's order, according to the color, gimmick, and number, the upper and the accessory are sent to the site accurately.
Note: Do not mistake the order, type, quantity in the ingredients. Vice color code should not be in the inner and back to help with the wrong, the amount of material also pay attention to the collocation of the main and auxiliary parts
8: Car waist helper: Needle pitch 13-14/inch, two pairs of needles on the shoe's mouth, 2mm margins
Note: When sewing the sewing machine, pay attention to the tightness of the line, and it is advisable to not see the car line after knocking. The tip of the shoe's tip toe is heavy to the pinhole. The narrow waist will help the car to narrow the back line, and the narrow car will make the waist knock off, leaving a trace
9: knock on the waist to help: knock, open, not broken (to wipe the glue before knocking)
10: pressure (paste) imported cloth: cloth from the shoe 8mm, and the helper level, and to press, straight
Note: If the shoe is placed at the top of the mouth, it will cause the back edge of the chin to be thick. If it passes, it will not be able to fully reinforce it. Does not suppress the reinforcing effect will be weakened, not pressure will make the waist help line deformation (bend)
11: Put on the felt: spray the white glue first, then stick the felt from the 7.5mm of the shoe mouth .
Note: spray glue should be thin and even, too thick will make the shoe surface appear glue position and become hard, too thin will cause the raising cloth and the shoe surface to be not sticky, the fine cloth will leave the shoe upper and leave the mark after leaving the shoes mouth too wide. Too narrow will make the upper edge difficult and the upper will thicken
12: pick up the inside: the back joint in the front joint at the brush gas oil plastic, inside the lid to help the tooth more than 0.5mm
Note: You can't brush back in the back side, but brush it in place. You can't go over the upper and lower teeth. And can not brush too narrow, if the super teeth spilled rubber, it is not easy to wipe off, if too narrow will make the inside sticky, easy to fall off, then when the inner cover too much and too far from the tooth will make the inside shorter or change Long, affect the car shoe mouth lead to wrinkled upper
13: In the car:
a Tellus can get a line inside the car, with 1mm margins, 13 stitches, and two needles up and down.
b pu car with two lines, margin 1.5mm, needle pitch 13 needles, two needles up and down
Note: When the needle is pushed up and down, the sewing lane must be straight and the width must be the same.
14: After sewing, the stitch length is 13mm, the margin is 1.5mm, beyond the sharp corner 3 stitches
Note: Too many needles will make the radian behind the back small, too little needle will crack the back (Slip)
15: Knocking back and forth: knocking on and knocking, and brushing before tapping
Note: After the back is not knocked on, it will help the back
16:pu lining is not woven: first brushing glue, back affixed when not woven from the shoe 8mm, 4mm from the helper foot, 1mm from the first line, (cashmere, buck do not paste)
17: Renovate the felt and repair the uppers
Note: Can not damage the upper, can not be exposed fine cloth, exposed fine cloth will make the group to pull the help of non-adhesive
18: Brush head glue: brush glue should be thin and even, in place
Note: The glue should not be too wide or too narrow. Too narrow will make the cloth's thin cloth sticky and easy to remove.
19: affixed with fine toe : align with the tip of the shoe and the helper foot. 8mm from the shoe's mouth
Note: Width will make traces of the shoe's mouth easy to break.
20: hot melt adhesive: from the toe opening 2-3mm, from both sides of the help 8mm, 15mm from the edge of the shoe edge, hot melt adhesive in the middle, around the oblique to the thinnest, the middle thickness is generally 0.8mm, Depending on the hardness of leather and materials
Note: The hot melt adhesive is too thick and will make the preparation group easy to break and brittle before the operation. It will not feel soft and comfortable. On the contrary, it will cause the toe to be deformed and the original shape cannot be maintained. The hot melt adhesive will not be slanted. Causes uneven uppers
21: Behind the car: Needle pitch 13-14 stitches, 1.5mm margins, from the ears half acupuncture needles, and down two needles
Note: The back needle must be heavy to the pinhole. If the needle pitch is too thin or too dense, it will cause the upper back to break and the length of the upper to become longer after the front help is applied. The sewing car line is tight and proper, and after knocking, the line must not be exposed, and the line cannot be thrown, otherwise it will make the back line
22: Knock back help: knocking and knocking cannot be broken
23: Pick up the ears: The mouth of the shoe is flat, the teeth of the ears are aligned with the back of the helper, and the ears cannot be wrinkled.
Note: The lack of standards for the ear affects the inner and outer waist height, and affects the tightness of the shoe opening and the back of the shoe.
24: Car ears: 13-pin pitch, margin 1mm, two inverted 1 needle
Note: The reverse needle must be on the pinhole, and the lower end of the ear can not exceed the rear line, must be aligned after the help line
25: After the pressure pu cloth , 10mm from the shoe, 8mm to help the feet, and to pressure straight
Note: After the back cover strip is too short, the Hong Kong Bao water will penetrate the upper. When the length is too long, the impact at the mouth of the shoe will increase the thickness of the shoe opening. It will affect the adhesion to the midsole at the foot. If the pressure is not correct, Will affect the back line
26: Match Neri , to distinguish between left and right feet inside the upper, order, body, color, mark, number, etc.
Note: A slight mis-alignment will lead to the entire order, straightforward several orders rummaging
27: Car back , 11 stitches, 1.5mm margin, 2mm tooth, and the shoe upper and inner six points should be aligned
Note: The shoe opening is too close to the needle, and the shoe opening is easy to break when rubbing the edge of the shoe. Excessive width of the mouth of the shoe, too narrow will affect the shape of the shoe mouth, three points will not be aligned within the collapse of the inside, the car line is loose and moderate, too loose will show the line, too tight will lead to difficult shoes, easy to break, shoe Wrinkle
28: Shoe chewing gum: The width of the shoe squeegee is 10mm, the toe cap is 15mm, and the squeegee should be thin and even.
Note: Too wide the rubber in the shoe mouth will make the inner fabric and the fine cloth stained. When the group is put into the Hong Kong treasure, it will easily tear the upper, and the rubber seal will be too narrow, which will make the side of the shoe not sticky. Bubbles, rubber brush too thick will make the upper side of the shoe after the edge thickens and becomes hard
29: Pull the reinforcement belt: Pull it away from the mouth of the shoe at 5mm, pull it out, moderate the elasticity, and cross it at 20mm after the gang.
Note: If the shoe opening is too wide, the edge of the eyelids will become wider and there will be traces. On the contrary, the margins will become narrower. Reinforced belts do not pull smoothly, and belts that are too loose can deform the mouth of the shoe. Too loose can cause the mouth to buckle and the mouth to wrinkle. If the reinforcing tape cross is too short, the gang will be cracked when it is made, and if it is too long, the thickness of the shoe opening will be increased. The waste of the reinforcing tape will not achieve a better effect.
30: sash edge:æ‹— edge margin is 4mm, the required width is consistent, smooth, turn inside 2.5mm, the mouth of the shoe is not less than 2mm.. The shoe opening is required to be round, smooth, and the margins are the same
Note: When the margins are not uniform, it will affect the smoothness of the shoe's mouth, and will not expose the line after the turn. The whole shoe can't be wrinkled and deformed, and the other shoe's mouth is not woven.
31: Car to help feet and 190, margins 3mm, needle spacing 7-8 stitches, pay attention to tightness
32: Finishing: First check the shoe upper and the inside of the bread, whether the number is consistent, the right and left feet are correct, the shoe mouth is not posted in place, the hot melt adhesive is played correctly, after the help, the waist is not exposed, and Whether it is straight, whether the ears are deformed, whether the margins of shoes are standard, whether the shoe opening is round, and whether the inner lane is standard or not.
33: Cleaning (rubbing) wipes off any unclean things on the upper
34: Burning thread head: Burn the ear and inner thread with a baking machine, and cut the scorched hard head with scissors. Do not burn too long and burn the upper.
35: With double: According to the order number, type body, color, the shoe with double, and tied to the goods inspection
36: Quality inspection: The main difference between the main work and finishing is that
37: Counting: Orders, styles, colors, gimmicks, numbers, and accessories will be sent to the middle of the warehouse in a shoe box. (If necessary, separate uppers with wrapping paper to avoid staining inside.)
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